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Wines Around the World
Italy
In an earlier manifestation as the Holy Roman Empire,
the Italians took wine making to the farthest corners
of the Empire. When the soldiers were out on the edge
of Gaul, they needed their wine after a long day of
conquering. This is why winemaking, vines, and casks
were taken throughout Europe, and we will see, this
is also the reason for wine's spread into the Americas,
Australia, and South Africa.
To this day, Italian wine is a tough nut to crack. Like
France, the Italian government has a standards system
in place and every bottle you buy will have a designation
on it.
They are:
DOCG: (denominazione di origine controlla e
garantita) is the highest status conferred on Italian
wines.
DOC: (denominazione de origine controlla) is
the second highest standard.
VdT: is a general category for wines that are
not of the DOCG or DOC standard. VdT stands for vin
da tavola, or table wine.
This system recognizes traditionally outstanding wines
and the label guarantees that it is from a certain area,
uses certain grape varieties, has a minimum alcohol
content, and has met aging requirements. The standards
vary from wine to wine, for example, a Chianti must
come from Tuscany, while a Barolo must come from the
Piedmont region.
There aren't many Italian wines that are well known
outside of Italy's borders, and that is probably because
many are never even exported. Some great wine blends
from Tuscany are not well known yet because they do
not garner the DOCG/DOC rating. In many cases, these
are phenomenal wines called Super-Tuscans that rival
well known French and California blends.
Italy is known for creating wonderful food-friendly
wines, the most widely recognized of which being Chianti.
This name refers to a growing region nestled in the
hills of Tuscany. Primarily made from the Sangiovese
grape, Chianti got a bad rap in the seventies due to
a proliferation of cheesy basket-bottomed bottles that
hung from the rafters of many an Italian-American restaurant.
Not only in bad taste, this wine was of bad quality
and many people got a bitter, chalky first impression
of Italian wine through this. However, Chianti is a
good thing when produced well and treated well. It will
cost about $12 for decent Chianti, $20 for a really
good one- called Chianti Classico Riserva. Your contribution
to a good Chianti experience lies in allowing it to
breathe, and pairing it with food. It should breathe
for at least a couple of hours, if not for a day. Try
opening a bottle in the morning and having it with spaghetti
and meat sauce in the evening. Unless you like really
heavy wine, don't try to enjoy this wine on its own.
At least have some cheese or bread with you. There are
two types of Chianti you will find at your local wine
shop. Chianti Classico and Chianti Classico Riserva.
The latter has aged for three extra years in the care
of its winemaker, and has a slightly higher alcohol
content at 12.5%. Chianti Classico has only 12%. This
is an age-worthy wine that can come in quite handy for
the one-glass-a-day health kick. Just be sure to have
it with dinner.
While Chianti is the one of the better-known wines
from Italy, wine enthusiasts have been enjoying the
Barolo and Barbaresco wines from the Piedmont region.
North of Tuscany, the red grape of choice is the Nebbiolo.
Barbaresco and Barolo are higher-dollar wines that can
age for fifteen years and are much better for it. Restaurants
are wise to the benefits of aging and their price tag
shows it. I saw a 1996 Barbaresco going for $120 a bottle,
but when you're buying from your friendly wine retailer,
your cost for a current release should be around $20-30.
This wine is also food-friendly, a little more fruity
that Chianti but equally complex.
By and large, Italy is better at producing red wine
than white, owing to its climate. Many of the grapes
grown there are not grown in California, and thus completely
foreign to the American market. Most buy Italian wine
on the trust that Italians know what they're doing,
and that trust is well placed. It is just important
to remember that the Italians (like the French) rarely
drink wine without food and rarely eat food without
wine. When considering buying this wine- plan it with
a meal.
Italy also makes a charming sparkling wine called Asti.
It is much sweeter than French traditional champagne,
so if this is your style and dry leaves your bubbly
flat, try an Italian sparkling.
Italian red wines of note:
Valpolicella
Amarone
Barbera d'Asti
Brunello di Montalcino
Piave Merlot
Morellino di Scansano
Taurasi
Salice Salentino
Italian white wines of note:
Soave
Gavi
Orvieto
Greco di Tufo
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